Fishing walleye differently

Fishing walleye differently


There are plenty of ways to outsmart the yellow-robed, big-eyed predators.

Yet when interviewing several rod handlers, one has the impression that in the spring, they almost exclusively use shallow-diving crankbaits. Some swear by their Hot'N Tot and ThinFin. They will use it from the opening until mid-June to exploit water tributaries, breeding sites and the first escarpments.

Then, when these offerings are no longer as effective, they will opt for a jig head paired with a soft lure. Some will line the tip of the hook with a worm to enhance the whole thing.

If the walleyes are not under too much pressure, in many cases it will not take more to obtain the expected results .


When summer sets in for good and the heat wave heats up the water tables, the percids sink to the shallows. Not wanting to expose their pupils unnecessarily to the sun, they will look for cliffs, structures, lines of grass or the like to protect themselves from too intense light rays. As an indication, be aware that the normal intensity in an apartment is between 100 and 200 lux. Walleye appreciate light conditions of 8 to 70 lux, the equivalent of a moderately lit street at night. 

Aside from jigging, here are six other ways you could help you get out of the game in depth.

Weighted rope

Lake trout lovers know the method of fishing with weighted line, graduated to 10 meters, to drag their offerings near the abyss.

Walleye enthusiasts can use a very productive derivative. To do this, they must spool an 18-pound/test weighted line on a high-capacity trolling reel. It is useless to opt for a bulkier rope, such as the 27 lbs/test, which will inevitably handicap the dive by opposing more resistance. Using an Alberto knot, pair an 8 to 10 lb/test fluorocarbon invisible leader, 15 to 17 meters in length. Finally attach a floating elongated crankbait. If you manage to slow yourself down enough, your presentation should sink 1.5 to 2 meters for each color of weight, plus about two meters for the Bomber Long A for example. If you troll faster, you won't be able to interfere more than a meter per color. Do not hesitate to make S to slow down, then accelerate the course of your lure.

In between

The most basic approach is to fish with a sinker on the bottom and a lined hook 30-45cm higher. The Drop Shot technique is just as simplistic. Use a teardrop sinker and a size #2 hook. Depending on the height of the weeds or structure, you can leave up to 90cm between the two. Instead of impaling your favorite soft bait on the shank of the single hook, simply pierce it right through the front portion. Apply light motions and make everything vibrate occasionally.


Michel Leduc de Rigaud has foiled this beautiful specimen with the triple swivel technique . He was immediately pardoned after the photo was taken.

The triple swivel is a very useful accessory. A weight is attached to one of the rings. On the other, you can install a leader and a floating head with an earthworm. According to the marine profile, you can adjust the height of the sinker and the lure as you wish. A bootie lead or bottom walker could work just as well. However, it is easier to tie everything as desired. 

A worm harness made with two hooks and a worm produces excellent results with this type of rig. If you prefer leeches, choose a model with a single hook.


Streamlined floats like the Thill allow enthusiasts to present a worm or leech in the most enticing and natural way. Thanks to Bobber Stoppers, which are in fact small bumpers, we can limit the race of the fleet. For example, if you leave three meters under the stopper, the bait will be able to swim vigorously, without restriction, in the field of attack of the percids. You can weight the line with small split weights to hold it at the desired depth. As soon as you see the fleet moving, all you have to do is gradually shoe.  


The Jigging Rap is an incomparable offering that perfectly imitates a crazed minnow. Equipped with two single hooks at the ends, a tripod under the belly and an inverted V-shaped deflector, it pivots on itself when subjected to semi-aggressive jerks on a vertical axis of 20 to 30 cm in height. He then dives headfirst between each motion. Weighted with zinc, it handles easily at all depths, even if there is current. The W5, W7 and W9 models are the most efficient.


At the beginning of the text, I was referring to crankbaits of low dive. It is however possible to descend to 8.22 meters (27 feet) with a Bandit Walleye Deep, to 7.6 meters (25 feet) with a Bomber Deep Long A, to 6 meters (20 feet) with a Smithwick Deep Suspending Rattlin ' Rogue and even up to 12.2 meters (40 feet) with a Salmo Freediver. Favor a small gauge wire, ideally invisible, and you will be able to lure the targeted walleyes.

Good fishing.

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Fishing walleye differently