Gangs, dance and happy people: a great trip to Chicago

What do we imagine when hear “Chicago”? Gangsters and al Capone? The era of jazz? The first skyscrapers? Chicago Blues? Yes, of course, these associations can not escape. But what makes them such a city as Chicago? He grows them into something new, creating there are new directions in music and dance, once again surprises with unusual architecture tells “Voice of America”.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

The name “Chicago” is derived from the local Illinois word shikaakwa (“shikaakwa”), which means “wild leek”. Chicago is not shy about these associations. Every time the bitter bow, which was presented to his fate, he readily accepted and continued to live and delight.

At different time Chicago was considered literary, dance, musical and architectural capital of America. A city with a difficult biography, which is always something to overcome. His motto: “I can.” Down to earth, but not squat. By the way, Chicago had the first skyscraper — the building of the insurance company which had only 10 floors. And now there are hundreds no surprise.

This is one of the highest in the Chicago skyline — John Hancock. 94 can be savored a little “fly” over the city, slightly “dropped” from the window. This building was built in 1968, it is 457 meters, 100 floors, it is the fourth tallest in Chicago, the eighth highest in the United States and has long been considered the second tallest in the world.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Looking at the model of Chicago in the new building of the architectural centre, it’s hard to believe that once this city was burned to the ground. And “ground” here is not hyperbole. Chicago became a center for architecture, in fact, due to the great fire in 1871. Then the whole town had to be rebuilt, and very quickly. Everyone in Chicago somehow related to the fire, says the town historian Judy Parker.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

“Here, everything was wooden. Buildings, streets and even sidewalks, — said the expert. Because there was a marshland, you could go on a horse and fall on the neck.”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

By the way, it was during the great fire was born the phenomenon that today we would call fake news is fake news. A local journalist just made up the news that the fire started after the barn of a local resident of Irish descent cow hoof knocked over a kerosene lamp.

Judy Parker is sure: it is the fire tempered Chicago and made it so strong. The other cities do not compare.

“I lived in new York. New York- it’s like you take all this (pointing around) and clench, and the lake cut off,” says Judy.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Lake Michigan is so huge that even the main jetty is called the sea. These waters can still find equipment from the Second world war. After the defeat at pearl Harbor it was here staged a training base for the training of U.S. naval pilots. During the war years here were trained 15 thousand military pilots. Historians say that at the bottom still lies more than 100 aircraft. And on the lake a few years as a Museum piece stood the legendary submarine U-505.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

If you go to the Chicago Museum of science can be done in literally a huge opening. Because there is an ocean by a German submarine during the Second world war. U-505 was considered unsinkable. She made 12 combat outputs and sank 8 ships, and then was captured by American destroyers. Operation in June 1944, was top secret. To capture the submarine was important to get access to the German encryption keys. On the U-505, in particular, found cipher machine Enigma, tables, ciphers and secret journals that helped in the deciphering of the negotiation of German submarines.

“The most important discovery was not a Enigma, says ed McDonald, the Museum of science and industry. — There is code quickly hacked. Important was the acoustic torpedo. These torpedoes were released at moving targets, they react to the sound of propellers. After that, we were able to develop protection against such torpedoes”.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

U-505 was transported to Bermuda, and members of the German crew were sent to a secret pow camp in Louisiana. Participants in the operation it was impossible to tell about it. The ban was removed only when the war ended. An important trophy for the Americans and became the very vehicle of the submarine — advanced for the time.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

To move the submarine to the Museum in 2005 to help ordinary Chicagoans. This complex, calculated to the millimeter the operation raised the money to individuals.

“When we moved the boat to the Museum, we were invited to a joint dinner of the participants of the operation and those who are then captured, says McDonald. — Of course, all eyes were on the wet spot”.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

The submarine stood on the shore of lake Michigan nearly half a century. But leave it alfresco on was dangerous — and so it is hard to withstand the fickle Chicago weather, about which there is even a saying: “If you don’t like the weather in Chicago, wait 10 minutes and it will change”.

They say that the weather in Chicago owes its fondness for the large pizza. Here in this old house on Ohio street in the early 1940’s, was born the famous Chicago thick pizza that looks like a cake with high sides. Two business partners first think about a Mexican restaurant, but then stopped for pizza and came up with something like a Mexican enchilada. Until the late 1970’s in Chicago there were only two institutions, which was served deep-dish pizza: UNO and DUE. Now these restaurants in the city at every step.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Managing one of the pizzerias of Chicago Sean Asbra working in this field for 26 years and says that the popularity of a thick pizza in Chicago is not only a harsh climate.

“Chicago was a working city many years ago, says Mr. Asbra. And the Midwest has never been rich. People just had to come here to feed the family. Working people, blue collar workers, it is important to find something for the pocket”.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

With popular Chicago dish more experimenting — make a pizza vegetarian pizza gluten free.

Switch Chicagoans more healthily dreams and Emily Darlend, the owner of the truck with the medical name “Pharmacy around the corner.”

“Pharmacy is so we buy fresh from local farms, not just fresh and organic, says Emily. — People are not used to think that the truck can be a healthy food. For them it is rather of eating for pleasure”.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Trak — very popular in America the power point. The path in the restaurant business many people start that way. This project Emily launched together with a friend. At the opening of the “Pharmacy” they spent 75 thousand dollars. Emily says that in Chicago Tutrakan difficult: many of the difficulties associated with Parking. But the most difficult to change habits of customers.

Chicago’s so many associations, it would seem, historically stuck to him tightly. But really this city doesn’t want to freeze in the same role and is willing to accept anyone who is ready to make some fresh impetus into his life. If dancing is not only jazz!

This dance is called “chaplet” — a mixture of ballet and hip-hop, or hip-hop on Pointe. Chiplet was born here in Chicago. Its author, choreographer Homer Hans Bryant, himself a former dancer.

“I wanted it to be fun, says Bryant. — I used to do something like a rap ballet. And I began to think: hip-hop, ballet… — chiplet!”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

The dream of Homer has always been to make ballet accessible to girls from African American and Asian families. And the experiment was a success. Dance hybrid has been so successful that it brought the dancers millions of views online, huge popularity and thousands of people willing to learn to dance as well.

“I don’t care about any growth or size, says Bryant. — In classical ballet, everything is different: the dancer must be thin, anorexic, with a long neck, skinny arms. We have chiplote all completely different.”

Dancers compare chiplet chemical experiment, when the mixture of elements gives an unexpected reaction.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

In the legendary Chicago jazz club “the Green mill” dance like 100 years ago, when the era of jazz, this place was a cult. The oldest jazz club where he loved to visit al Capone is working now — original greetings the famous Parisian “Moulin Rouge”.

David Jemilo became the owner of “Green mill” 30 years ago and made the place fell into ruin, great again.

“There was a hot spot. Everything was destroyed, — says Jamila. On the floor, literally junkies: when people arrived, we had to step through them”.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Return “Green mill” former glory was not so easy. But now everything is different: here is all of the musicians, and in the evenings it’s Packed with visitors. However, David came up with something new. Now here not only dance, but also poetry slam: his birthplace — also Chicago. But everything else was as before. There’s no Internet, the cash register is not computerized, phones drives. All of this works.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

However, if tourists come here, they often ask me about jazz, and about al Capone. David gives an interview on the spot where loved to sit on the famous gangster because he could keep an eye on both doors.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

In and out is not allowed until the school was al Capone. The gangster could at any moment to leave the Green mill for a network of secret tunnels. It is for them in the era of prohibition illegally brought alcohol.

“Here and now there is a secret exit to the street, says David. But I can’t to show it to you. Me then you’ll get mugged!”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Figure al Capone still evokes such interest that in Chicago even run special tours to the places of his military glory. Craig Elton was once a radio host, and led a children’s program, and now has turned into “gangsters”. Craig prepares the bus for another tour.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Interestingly, when Russian tourists go on this tour, they will recognize the bus, and all because it can be seen in the movie “Brother 2”, which partly takes place in Chicago.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

By the way, thanks al Capone came the expression “to wash money”. The proceeds of crime, it was necessary to spend without attracting attention of security services. To do this, al Capone built a huge network of laundries. To monitor the number of clients they were difficult, and therefore the income you can write what you want.

After the tour, Craig meets us in the suit and the violin case in hand is the usual accessory for all gangsters, in case the weapons were hidden.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Street shooting in Chicago, unfortunately, has not become history. In August 2019 only for one weekend in the city killed 12 people and more than 60 were injured. Street gangs in disadvantaged areas in the South and East of the city, concentration of poverty and availability of weapons: the current surge of violence explain rather social factors. To answer the question, how to solve the problem of street crime, are trying in the criminal laboratory of the University of Chicago.

“There was one graduate, who after defending his thesis robbed and shot, he died from wounds, says the leader of research projects University of Chicago Kimberly Smith. — I think this has forced the University to understand that it must be something to do with what is happening in the vicinity of the campus.”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

University laboratory collaborates with the Chicago police and community organizations from disadvantaged areas. Using big data technology and special computer programs they are trying to determine the specific point where there is shooting. This helps the police to respond faster and devote more attention to security. The result is already there: in the area of Inglewood, where the system worked for the longest time, the number of shooting incidents decreased by 38%.

To gangs many young people. Over the last 20 years in the city was arrested 33,000 people, the youngest 10 years. However, the young people of Chicago, the life script can be quite different.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

When this workshop Shoe repair Fix Your Kicks first opened, visitors could not understand — where’s the boss? No one could believe that a business owner can be 19. Now Joshua’s Marina 21. During these two years he had become a local celebrity. About it write in Newspapers, show it on television. It all started with the fact that he decided to repair shoes to earn extra money. The main instigators of Joshua — his father and grandfather, a family of shoemakers.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

In the workshop come not only to transform old sneakers into a work of art. The most expensive order sounds very prosaic: brush 66 pairs of shoes. Workshop within six months after the opening began to yield good income. After a year Joshua plans to open courses to teach young people — for example, high school students in schools.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

The young activists a few years ago we started in Chicago a public campaign “Music against violence”. Performers of rap and hip-hop, musicians and dancers believe that art can make young people lay down their arms. Unfortunately, the activists themselves sometimes become the victims of street shooting. In September, was shot and killed 19-year-old singer footwork — dance born on the streets of Chicago in the 1990s.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

“This is an incredibly strong, powerful city — says the Creator of footwork Kavain space. — It can even be scary. But it’s true. Here I want to be the best. But here is what I think: why would someone want to prove something? Why compete? You just have to live, to enjoy life. There are a lot strong-minded people who don’t want to let anyone down”.

Город гангстеров, танца и счастливых людей: большое путешествие по Чикаго

Photo: scenes video of “voice of America”

“Three adjectives about Chicago? Outstanding. Joyful. A must to visit,” says ed MacDonald from the Museum of science and industry.

“Chicago strong. Chicago powerful. Chicago fun. Very funny!” — I’m sure the owner of the truck Emily Darlend.

“Chicago is one of the best cities, adds the Creator of chiplet Homer Hans Bryant. And it is clean, very clean. It is a city of happy people.”

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