Trio of volcanic gamays

Trio of volcanic gamays


Does the Côtes du Forez speak to you? Ribs of what, you say? Forez – pronounced fo-rè-ze – as in “les monts du Forez”, a mountain range located in the eastern part of the Massif Central. 

Technically, this very small appellation belongs to the Val de Loire, as well as the Côte Roannaise and the Côtes d'Auvergne. The wines produced there, perhaps because they are composed exclusively of Gamay, nevertheless have much more in common with those of Beaujolais. 

Twenty years ago, Gilles Bonnefoy planted four hectares of vines around the Madone volcano, in Champdieu, his small native village. He cultivates them according to the principles of biodynamics and he produces these three deliciously unique wines, fresh from the SAQ.

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Gilles Bonnefoy, Côtes du Forez 2021, Dacite, La Madone 

$26.60 – SAQ code 14976071 – 14% – 2.5 g/L – Biodynamic

This first cuvée is produced on a terroir of dacite, a rock of volcanic origin whose cooling takes place inside the earth's crust, like granite. Of the three, it is the one that most closely resembles a northern Beaujolais. The attack on the palate is both lively, supple and endowed with a certain density; the flavors of black fruits, smoke and carob follow one another and give way to a very peppery finish. Tasty. Leave it in a carafe for 30 minutes. 

**** $$ 1⁄2 

Gilles Bonnefoy, Côtes du Forez 2021, Memory La Madone, Vieilles Vines

$33.75 – SAQ code 14976055 – 13%- <2 g/L – Biodynamics

The memory of the wine rests on Gamay vines over 50 years old, planted in basalt soils, an extrusive volcanic. Aging takes place in vats. And yet, I could have sworn to have detected a hint of vanilla in the nose. The palate is round on the attack, full and fleshy at its heart, but leaves a fresh and digestible sensation on the finish. Compact flavors of black fruits and pepper. It should still gain in depth within 4-5 years.
**** $$$

Gilles Bonnefoy, Madone Gamay's 2021, Mi Noir Mi Bouze, IGP Urfé

$28 – SAQ code 14777996 – 12.5% ​​- 1.4 g/L – Biodynamic

This wine, as its name suggests, is composed of equal parts gamay noir à jus blanc and gamay de bouze, a dyer variety that is less suitable for producing quality wines. That said, the blend makes for a very good thirst-quenching wine with vibrant acidity. The nose presents notes of reduction (smell of boiled egg); the texture is light, silky on the attack, with a delicate astringency on the finish.